Monday, January 10, 2011

El Rincón de la Cocina Judía


Este rinconcito es en español, una manera de no olvidar que aprendimos a cocinar judío en castellano.

El libro que traje conmigo desde Argentina se llama “La Cocina Judía, Tradiciones y Variaciones”, editado por editorial Shalom, 1984. Solo leerlo es un placer, y también una fuente de recuerdos de todo tipo: la bobe, la madre, las tías, las panaderías judías del once, la rotisería donde se compraba el pan Goldstein (Olom Ha sholom), el pastrón ahumado y los pepinos en salmuera que vivían todos juntos en un barril de madera cuyos estándares sanitarios eran los vigentes en el reinado de Salomón.

Las páginas están amarillas, y para sacarle la foto le tuve que limpiar la tapa, pero aún con todas las manchas es especial y yo lo quiero muchísimo. Ese tiempo de crecer judíos en Argentina no volverá más, por lo cual decidí rendirle homenaje en este blog.

Nota: las tazas, como medida, son tazas de allá. M.R., la única que tiene la verdadera taza, a lo mejor nos quiere dar la equivalencia en medidas americanas.
Aquí va una receta con gusto a té con limón:

Leicaj Negro o de miel:

Ingredientes:
2 huevos
1 taza de azúcar
½ vaso de café cargado
3 clavos de olor
½ vaso de aceite
1 vaso de miel
½ kilo de harina
2 cucharadas de polvo de hornear
½ cucharadita de bicarbonato
Jugo y ralladura de medio limón
Nueces picadas, a gusto.

Preparación:

Prepare el café cargado, con 3 clavos de olor en el agua (que quedan en el colador). Mezcle los huevos con el azúcar, la miel, el aceite, el jugo y la ralladura del limón. Tamice la harina con el polvo de hornear y el bicarbonato y agréguela a lo anterior mezclando bien. Incorpore las nueces pasadas por harina. Vierta la masa en la asadera aceitada y enharinada; ponga a horno fuerte durante 5 minutos, baje a mediano y luego a suave. Cocine durante 50 minutos, vigilando para que no se queme.

Miren que bueno!


Soup for the Soul: Red Kubbeh Soup/מרק קובה אדום/Marak Kubbeh Adom

To all the Srugim fans out there: Do  you remember the episode where Yifat treated her friends with Marak Kubbeh Adom Soup for shabbat diner? Against the background of the Judean hills she sat with Re'ut and Amir delighting in the flavor of this amazing soup.

Fascinated by a dish I have not known of, I researched a little and I bumped into this incredible recipe. All the credit to "Le Cordon Jew" (www.soulandgone.com) from which site this recipe comes from.

And now, the recipe:




Red Kubbeh Soup/מרק קובה אדום/Marak Kubbeh Adom
Ingredients:
2 medium onions, diced
5 – 6 beets, chopped into large dice
1 bunch green (Swiss) chard, chiffonaded
Other vegetables of your choice (see below)
Chicken stock
1 small can tomato paste
1 – 2 tbsp sweet paprika
2 – 5 tbsp sugar
1 – 2 tbsp lemon salt (citric acid)
Salt and freshly-ground pepper to taste
Olive oil
Kubbeh

A few notes on the ingredients:

Chicken Stock: Use real chicken stock. Not from a can. Or use water. Don’t be an Israeli and use Osem powdered parve non-chicken “consommé” to flavour everything. It’s lazy and it makes what would be great food just that much worse. Every spoonful of Osem is another year the Messiah tarries.

Vegetables: Your choice of sweet potato, carrot, celery, pumpkin, squash or zucchini.

Spices: You may have noticed my spice measurements are vague at best. I find that it’s mostly useless to give exact measurements when it comes to soup. Water varies, stocks vary, paprika varies, vegetables vary heavily in flavour depending on season and origin; and it all conspires to render exactitude futile. Season as you go. When it’s right, you’ll know.

Lemon Salt: A somewhat less unnerving name for citric acid in its crystalline form. This stuff is highly concentrated sour; it’s wildly popular in Mediterranean cooking, but for some reason uncommon in the West. Buy online or head to a Mediterranean market or health food store.

Instructions:
1) In a 12 quart stockpot (or, you know, whatever), heat up several tablespoons of olive oil. Sauté the onions until translucent.

2) Add the beets. Stir mightily. Dig that neat color the beets turn the onions. Cook a couple minutes more.

3) Add the carrots and cook for another minute or two, then add tomato paste. Stir more. Cook another couple minutes, making sure not to let the paste burn.

4) Add enough chicken stock to fill the pot. If you don’t have quite enough, you can top it off with water. Not the end of the world. Don’t fucking add any stock powder or bouillon cubes.

5) Add all your seasonings, the chard, and long-cooking vegetables (carrots, celery, etc.) Save quicker-cooking root vegetables (like sweet potatoes) for a bit later. Simmer uncovered until the carrots are nearing done. Keep tasting and seasoning as you go. It should be sweet, sour and savory in about equal measures. Sort of like tomato soup but…you know…Jewish?

6) Once carrots are nearly cooked, add the quicker-cooking root vegetables. Continue simmering. Usually, I wind up simmering for a couple hours, give or take, from beginning to end. You want the liquid to reduce a bit to further concentrate the flavours.

7) Once all your vegetables are at their appropriate level of doneness, it’s time to add the kubbeh you worked so hard to make. However many you want:

They float. Cool, huh?

Continue simmering with the kubbeh for another twenty minutes. Make sure the seasoning is how you want it.

8) After the twenty minutes of kubbeh-simmerin’, remove the soup from heat and let it cool. Then refrigerate it overnight. The flavours develop and the kubbeh get a chance to become completely saturated through-and-through with the broth, making them ridiculously delicious. Texture and flavor-wise, they’re more like massive meatballs than dumplings. Once the next day rolls around, reheat the soup and savage it like you want to.

Try it: it is something out of this world (and into the Jewish Cooking Word), that is the reason I included it into the blog.

Featured Book of the Week: You Made my Day: Four Generations of Jewish Cooking by Evelyn Gold

For Jewish women Jewish cooking usually means also memories of love, dedication, an unspoken bond with their mothers and grandmothers. "You Made my Day" is a testimony of the love between a daughter and a mother, of the love given in the form of food and the love received that encouraged her to transmit that knowledge. Evelyn Gold's book is at the same time a book of memories and a book of great Jewish recipes. It is a wonderful book to read and a great book of reference. It is well organized in chapters, all of them spiced up with memories of a bond that will last her lifetime.

Let's enjoy one of her recipes:

Carrot Latkes
Ingredients:
3 fresh carrots
1/4 cup matzo meal
3 eggs
salt and pepper to taste
oil, enough to cover the frying pan
approx. 9" round frying pan

Directions:
Chop carrots. Mix eggs, matzo meal, salt and pepper together and add to the chopped carrots. Consistency should not be sticky or runny, but somewhere in between.

Fry latkes in hot oil. Use 1 tsp. of the mixture for frying in order to make bite sized latkes. Fry untill golden brown, turning latkes over only once. Total frying time is about 3-5 minutes. Place the latkes on a paper towel to remove excess oil and cool.

Note: Use the same amount of eggs as carrots (1 egg: 1 carrot).

Thank you, Evelyn!